Wednesday, March 30, 2011

coming .....being......going.....

My last night in Rishikesh and it seemed fitting to attend the aarti one more time.  The gardener who works at the ashram performs this ritual every evening and last night I assisted him under his careful instructions. Standing on the banks of the Gange,  watching the light begin to fade, I was able to soak up the beauty of some of the simple everyday things that happen in India.  The gardener is perhaps one of my favourite characters I have encountered so far. He has that sparkle in his eye that says he gets it. He loves life, is a devoted yogi and something about the flowers that he grows suggests he knows a thing or two about gardening. In his quiet moments, he has been giving us hatha yoga lessons and always has a word of wisdom to offer. With his limited English, it is amazing what he is able to communicate.”Slowly, slowly.” A simple mantra for just about anything. And the guy is right.  If we slow down, everything seems to be easier.  I will add it to my list of sound advice for life.
Hatha yoga lesson
As I come to the end of my Indian adventure, I find it hard to believe I have been away nearly 3 months. One quarter of the year has gone, never to be experienced again. Three months of memories and experiences that will stay with me forever.  As the meditation retreat drew to a close, we were acutely aware of the “end” of something. And it makes me think about how everything comes to an end at some point. As Swami J puts it, everything is coming, being or going. Everything.  Nothing is infinite, everything is impermanent. Like a well crafted story, there is always a beginning, a middle and an end. So I have learnt it’s important to recognise each stage and transition from one to the next.  So India is going. But then Nepal is coming.
The many colours of India
So tomorrow I leave for Nepal to begin my next adventure, but when something is ending or going, it is often that time when you stop and look back.  India is often referred to as a sensory overload, and yesterday walking around Rishikesh, I was reminded of the sights, sounds and of course smells that will always be unique to this country. Sidestepping fresh cow manure, my grubby feet I don’t think will ever be the same. A very kind friend gave me a foot massage the other day and stated “the dirt just keeps coming out of your skin!”. And it really sums up India, it doesn’t just get under your skin, it is in your skin, a part of you.  The bold colours of sari’s, the glistening white smiles of children curious to get a closer look, being greeted by passersby with one hand on their heart and a “Hare Om!” are images that are now firmly etched in my memory.

Pablo getting a Lassi
I have had an amazing time in India and I can see why many travellers come here and find it hard to leave. That said, it is a difficult country to be in. Finding some peace and quiet, a simple salad and ice that you can trust are things I have had to live with as a wistful reminiscence of home.  That’s just part of the deal.  But for all of the dirt, the constant honking of car horns and the random animals that you will find roaming the streets (I can now add pigs to the mix of cows, monkeys, dogs and chickens) there is definitely an energy and vibe that India has that I have not experienced before. Once you find the groove (and believe me it comes) the noise seems to fade into the background, the smells blend into one another to form something not so offensive and you find yourself making your way across a busy street without hesitation. It was yesterday when I was bouncing along in the back of a rickshaw, that I didn’t raise an eyebrow to the cow parade that was holding up traffic, the sadu’s dressed in orange or the pigs scavenging for food on the banks of the Gange that I realised, India was now part of me. I doubt I will ever get the dirt out of my skin, and I am not sure I really want to.  So even though this is the ending of this section of my adventure, I think there is a “to be continued” that is warranted. India, I am sure I will be visiting you again one day.
From one interesting country to another, tomorrow I head to Nepal to have a quick reunion with Catherine before meeting my friend Paul (coming from Oz) to trek the Annapurna Circuit before undertaking a month of volunteer work. So, it will be a few weeks between posts.....but the beauty of the Himalaya’s awaits.

Thursday, March 24, 2011

My new best friend

A received an email from a friend recently saying “I don’t know what I would do with all of that time in the ashram to think!” and well, the point of meditation is really not to think. Let thoughts come but go without really looking at them. Stilling the mind. But somehow I got that part mixed up and kind of went into overdrive. Something about when you stop, things catch up with you I guess.  Life in the ashram has been pretty much as my last post, bubble life is becoming a pattern for me and I find I can often forget I am actually in India. What I have found though since I last wrote, that what began as peace and tranquillity, culminated in a storm of sorts earlier this week. Well, maybe not a storm, that is perhaps a little dramatic, but I was getting frustrated with my meditation practice – I am not doing it right, I am useless, my mind WILL NOT SHUT UP! No peace, no quiet, just constant and incessant chatter. That child seeking attention? Back with vengeance.  Everything from what am I doing next week, what are my travel plans, what about after Nepal, what about the rest of my life?  (Next week I think I will stay in Rishekesh before heading to Nepal on 2nd April) Writing it now is almost embarrassing as really, what luxury to have such choice! To the mundane, what will I wear today (the big issues), I wonder what is for lunch - I hope it’s paneer (yummy food here, and this is my favourite, an Indian cheese dish), will we see an elephant today? (we saw one 3 days in a row). 
Ashram gardens

I started missing my other bubble in McLeod, at least I had coffee and didn’t have to hang out with my own mind so much, just some cool people who I would love to see again. I was really getting over myself to be honest.  For the first time this trip, I was not feeling the flow.  And then I had an aha moment – one of those times when you realise something so blatantly obvious that you want to kick yourself.  I had started thinking about stuff and analysing why I was thinking like that- getting myself in knots over mundane issues. I had forgotten my own mantra, just be here in the moment and live with what is presented to me. A reality check of sorts. I was getting in the way of myself.  It was while sitting on the banks of the river with our afternoon chai, and we spotted an elephant. He was taking a swim, and blessed us with his presence for about 40 minutes whilst he bathed himself in the holy Gange.  Truly majestic.  And it dawned on me, what on earth did I have to be worried about. I am living my dream, and my mind had become my enemy instead of my friend.  It sounds ridiculous, but even in the midst of this amazing experience; I was starting to sweat the small stuff. But I guess it shows I am human. The reality was, I was watching an elephant in the wild, how totally amazing. And almost instantly, the luscious glow to life returned. The colour in the flowers of the ashram garden, the locals passing us watching the Haiti (elephant) stopping to smile and enjoy the show, the aarti ceremony on the banks of the river conducted by the gardener each night, that same gardener teaching us asana on his tea breaks with broken english (perhaps one of the coolest people I have met so far) – all bought a smile to my face.  I can again see the beauty in the small things, and the worries of yesterday? What worries? Funnily enough, if I don’t know where I am going to be next week, does it really matter? It will all work out, it has so far and will continue to.  My meditation has not got any better today, but that’s ok, it will be different next time.  And the mind that would not be quiet? Well, let’s just say we had a chat, and I think I have the makings of a new best friend.
Aarti ceremony

I also wanted to say thanks for your emails and comments, I love hearing from you and it humbles me that you are taking the time to read about my adventures.  Continue sending emails and posting comments as I love hearing from you all!   I will post some more pictures next week so look to the flickr link on the right of this page.
My aha moment, triggered by my friend the elephant

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Me, Myself and I

It seems like I have almost moved from one bubble to the next. I am now in Rishekesh and just over 1 week into a 3 week meditation retreat. Like McLeod Ganj, life in the ashram is very easy and I have slipped into the routine without hesitation. The day is quite structured and begins with tea at 6am, followed by practice and coaching on physical stretches and breathing techniques that are necessary for the preparation of the meditation practice itself.  The rest of the day flows into discussion groups, teachings on the principles of yoga, and a total of 4 practice sessions per day.  For an hour at a time, we begin by systematically working with the body, the breath and then the mind, with the actual sitting in meditation lasting about 30 minutes each a time. 
On the banks of the Gange, the ashram of Swami Rama provides an idyllic setting for finding peace and tranquility. The beautifully cared for garden, the like minded people from all over the world, the warm gentle breeze – all contribute to a space that has a special feel to it.  Different from McLeod Ganj, I am finding myself feeling that same connection, that in 3 weeks, I am sure I will be reluctant to move away from.
Meditation creates a lot of time being with yourself. Watching your thoughts, noticing what arises and hoping for a moment of silence. Of blissful space where everything ceases to exist, the body, breath and mind are one and everything else fades away, in that moment, that glimmer, you find peace. It is a truly remarkable process to work through, and something I am finding I look forward to every day. I enjoy the discussions (you will know I don’t mind to chat) but here, it is the time to be with myself, to find that space, that I am most enjoying. Our even craving. I find myself watching the clock in anticipation.  Some days I can slip easily into the process and the flow and my mind plays along, allowing me the space and then others, it jabbers away in protest, almost like a small child seeking attention. Going with the process, I am learning that neither is right nor wrong, but simply observing the differences.  Allowing my thoughts to pass by, like clouds gently moving in the breeze, my thoughts begin to move through my mind. Not lingering for too long, but long enough for me to recognise them as thoughts.
So if you have done a lot of meditation you will recognise the pattern, or if this seems like a bunch of mumbo jumbo, you can think that I am crazy and skip over it. But either way, I encourage you to hang out with yourself for a minute or two, it is really interesting what you can learn.  Sitting for a moment and just noticing, playing witness to your mind can be extremely powerful. So hanging without myself is becoming an enjoyable process, and like sipping on a warm cup of hot chocolate, sliding into your freshly made bed with clean sheets or receiving a hug from someone you care about, meditation becomes a delicious experience. You should try it some time J

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Random Acts of Kindness

Whilst sitting in a Buddhist meditation program the other day, the teacher asked us to remember the very first act of kindness someone showed us. Go all the way back in your memory, and recall, who was it that showed you kindness, and what did they do? You can try it now if you like. I found it extremely challenging, either my memory has trouble reaching that far back or perhaps it is I couldn’t recall an act of kindness. Not to say I didn’t experience kindness as a child, but I couldn’t think of a specific example. I came to realise, that I was surrounded by love and kindness but I simply didn’t recognise it as kindness. Just as normal everyday behaviour.  So I stated to notice this week, the random acts of kindness that people show, and to be honest, I have been overwhelmed.
Our friends on our trek
This week the organisation I volunteer with closed for holidays as it is Losar – the Tibetan New Year.  I still had some things to finish with CHOICE (the editing work I have been doing) but things were winding up so it was a good chance to have some time “off” to enjoy McLeod Ganj in my final week.  The weather was still cold and even a bit wet, but it didn’t seem to dampen the mood as the town prepared for the Losar celebrations. I liken it to preparing for Christmas, lots of food, family and friends come together to eat and celebrate for 3 days. A few day trips were planned – a trek up to Triund into the snow covered mountains I had been looking at out my bedroom window for nearly a month (2900mt – which incidentally we only made 2/3 of the way due to the weather), and a day introduction to Buddhism at a local Buddhist centre – strangely enough run by an Aussie guy (who prompted the noticing the kindness acts) So back to my week and the random acts of kindness (for ease, I will call RAK) –  the first  RAK - Our local cinema guy, knowing I was leaving,  asked what I would like to see, so by special request he screened “3 Idiots” a Bollywood movie. I highly recommend it, it has everything a good Bollywood movie should have, comedy, dancing, romance and a good story line that at times, really made you think.  No one else was in the cinema but us and the cinema guys, which perhaps made it even more special.  The next RAK, the evening before Losar, when everyone is heading home to spend time with their family, Dondul one of the guys I have been working with took me out to dinner to say thank you for the work I have been doing.  Having worked all day, with still lots to do for the big day, he took the time to hang out with me as a gesture of thanks. Small, but so meaningful. My next RAK was at my favourite coffee shop – my last morning was spent with the guys, both taking turns in hanging out, chatting, laughing and making my last time there so special, and then insisting I don’t pay (hopefully that doesn’t get you in trouble!!)
Losar preparations - traditional dress
Cafe Budan - my local coffee shop with Dorjee, Jamphel and Ta Bo
And then my last day in McLeod Ganj - it was so perfect, the sun came out and the warmth in the air returned, my hotel said not to hurry checking out (small RAK) and I spent the morning at the Temple as it was the main day for Losar. I then was invited to a Tibetan friends for lunch (again, another RAK) before a final catch up with Catherine to say goodbye and meet our respective buses. So then my final RAK, which almost made me cry, my Tibetan friend presented me with some small gifts, to protect me on my journey and to remember him by. So thoughtful and well, beautiful. Then to my surprise, my favourite monk (I know it it’s not really pc to have a favourite, but I am being honest) turned up at the bus station to say goodbye and presented me with a white prayer shawl – again to protect me on my journey. My Tibetan friend stayed, lugged my bags, made sure I was on the bus and I was safe.  All from people I didn’t know 4 weeks earlier. Words cannot describe how humbling it is, how special it makes you feel and well, pretty lucky I am to have met them.
Sherab and I at our final tutoring session
So, I have learnt we are constantly surrounded by kindness, we just need to see it as that. The hotel guy allowing me to check it out 6 hours later is in fact kindness, it doesn’t need to be monumental, but perhaps the small things are what count the most.  I think I wrote last week that I was going to be sad to leave McLeod Ganj, that the place was special but then I was debating whether it was the place or the people. I think I have found my answer, there is something about the place, but hands down, the people have been nothing short of amazing.  The guys at our favourite restaurant summed it up pretty well, “Aussie, you may not be here with us in body, but you will be here with us in heart and soul”.