Om mani padme hum

I have always wanted to go to Tibet, and after spending time in McLeod Ganj I felt an even stronger urge to visit the alluring country. My interest perhaps started after visiting a region of China close to the Tibet border some years ago, the country side, the culture, it all felt a little different and it sparked my curiosity.  Add in a healthy interest in Buddhism and some exposure to the Tibetan community living in exile, and I was really drawn to see for myself the dramatic scenery and what had become of the country and its people.  I don’t want to get into a political discussion around the situation in Tibet, but it is difficult to avoid given it has had such a massive impact on a country and its people. But what I have grown to love about the Tibetan people outside of Tibet, was only confirmed by visiting their homeland.

Stupa at Baiju Temple

Most of Tibet sits at around 4000mtr above sea level, and unlike Nepal which is lush with vegetation and beautiful forests, the land is incredibly desolate and at times can leave you feeling like you are on the set of a star wars movie.  Long endless plains, bare mountains and cloudless blue skies greeted us for our 6 day tour of a country that is deeply influenced by its religion and whilst the landscape may sound stark and depressing, it is some of the most stunningly beautiful land that leaves you struggling for words.  Our adventure to Tibet was a last minute decision organised whilst we were trekking. It is actually not always that simple to go to Tibet, you must be with a guide, the visa process can be tough and then you also need to factor in if the border will even be open. But luck had it we could get an organised and private tour leaving a day after our trek finished. So my dream of visiting Tibet became a reality.

On the Friendship Highway

We flew in to Lhasa and spent two days around the old town, visiting the tightly controlled Temple and Potala Palace. The military presence was strong and whilst seemingly peaceful, you had the feeling that the guys casually sitting on the roof tops would soon be armed with AK47’s in a flash should you put one foot wrong. So amidst the 100’s of pilgrims making their daily prayer vigils, circling the Kora with their prayer wheels and repeating their mantra’s whilst clutching their worn mala beads, countless Chinese army marched up and down making their presence known. The Potala palace was as stunning and eery all at the same time, it was the previous home of His Holiness the Dalai Lama who fled the country in 1959 to seek refuge in India. So whilst it is still a place of significance for Tibetans, the Chinese do not recognise the Dalai Lama and therefore no pictures or shred of evidence that he even existed can be found. They have tried to erase him from the history of Tibet. So it all feels a little weird.



Potala Palace

After visiting the Sera Monastery that was once home to over 5000 monks but now only houses about 500 (the Chinese Government does not allow “gatherings” of people so they often end up in jail or fleeing into exile), we commenced our path on the “Friendship Highway” – the 1000km stretch of road between Lhasa and Kathmandu. Along the way visiting 2 other significant monasteries and passing through some dramatic scenery – our highest crossing at 5100mtr. Significantly different from the similar heights we had been at the previous week. Hours of driving in a country that has little vegetation but in its own way leaves you in awe. What was interesting is the presence of mobile phone towers, electrical poles and the “modernisation” of Tibet – there was not a moment where the evidence of China was not present. With this modernisation, also comes perhaps the parts that I found sad. Big busy streets filled with Chinese stores, restaurants and cars appeared to be suffocating the smaller more traditional alley ways, stone houses brightly painted with the family animals tethered at the front door. But something that I was reflecting on whilst I was there, the country side was some of the harshest, most barren land, yet the local people continued to farm it and do so quite successful. Removing the stones from the soil, preparing the land by yak or horse and sowing the local crops of barley by hand, the land showed courage, determination and almost a blind faith.  Like the land, the Tibetans, despite the infiltration of their country and culture, showed that same courage, determination and faith.  In every town we went to, the local people greeted us with beaming smiles, often taking your hand to walk for awhile. The conversation limited by a lack of common language but hand signals and smiles can go a long way. I can’t put into words the overwhelming joy and I have to say love that came from the Tibetans, my small experience in McLeod Ganj was only validated in the homeland of these people. Suffering hardship that most of us could not even comprehend, I think the Lonely Planet was right in saying they are the friendliest and most warm people in Asia. So Tibet is a not only a land of beauty, but a country that despite all of its hardships and heartbreaking stories, leaves you wanting more – more of the scenery, more of the people and more of the deep and rich culture and religion. Om mani padme hum – hail the jewel of the lotus – really sums up Tibet. Despite the harshest conditions, they continue to grow and flourish and keep a beautiful culture, whilst maybe not evident on the surface, underneath it, in the back streets and alley ways, it is alive and well.

The fighting spirit of the Tibetans :)

iPods and Apple Pies

Imagine if you can, standing on the side of a mountain, one ear of my headphones plugged firmly in my ear, the other attached to my Nepalese buddy Shyam, dancing to Bob Sinclair’s  “Love Generation”.  Broad daylight, no alcohol or illicit substances aiding the impromptu dance party – just a couple of people having a really good time and grinning like small children. “This Bob Sinclair, he is my favourite, I am loving this song a lot” Shyam had said, and shared the earphone with me to join in his joy of discovering a new song.  So what are you to do, but join the kid in a dance off at 10am on a bright sunny day in the Himalayas.  It was one of our final days of trekking, and one of those moments that I will never forget. The mountains, Shyam grinning from ear to ear and carving up his imaginary dance floor (and for the record, he can actually dance) is one of those times where you are so filled with joy in a single moment that you too, can’t wipe the smile off your face. My introduction to Nepal, has been nothing short of amazing, again filled with memorable moments, amazing views and beautiful people. So as I haven’t written for awhile, stay with me while I try, note try, to describe what walking in the Himalaya’s on the Annapurna Circuit and climbing to 5416mt is like.

My trusty boots after 220km

Again, with any story, there is always an interlude or prelude, or whatever you want to call it.  But this story actually started nearly a year ago when my friend Paul and I were sharing a bottle of wine (or maybe it was 2) and he was sharing his travel experience of taking off for a year. I was at the time fantasising about the idea and we were mapping out what I could do – of course, in dream world. As part of the grand plan, I would travel to Nepal and Paul would join me for a trek. So when my dream became a reality, I rang Paul and said, “You still keen on Nepal?” and within a week he had arranged annual leave and booked a ticket. So maybe you could say he was part of my inspiration to embark on my adventure, and what better way than to share part of it with him. Prior to me leaving we had looked into different options, of course Everest base camp was a clear front runner, but somehow the allure of Annapurna, the circuit and some of the most spectacular scenery in the Himalaya won out and we booked into a small group tour for 18days. 

On the trail - Annapurna Circuit

Fast forward a few months and Paul arrived in Kathmandu on April 2^nd – so great to see a familiar face with stories of home. We departed for Pokhara to meet the rest of our group with whom we would be spending the better part of 3 weeks. In total we were 6 trekkers from all over the world and a team of 8 Nepalese guides and porters – the company we had opted for (3 Sisters Trekking - I can't recommend them enough)  works with empowering women so our crew were half girls, something that is extremely uncommon and as we were to discover, made our trip extra special. As with any group you are part of you, you often think that you have the best group, your guides are the best, the people you are with are the best, etc etc, but honestly, after meeting dozens of trekkers, and countless other groups, we DID have the best group, the other groups even said so. So a blend of countries, ages and experience combined to make a wonderful group of people to shed some blood, sweat and even a few tears with. 

I won’t take you through a day by day account of the trek as I am sure it would bore you, although each day was different, varied and the scenery did actually change dramatically as we made our way around the 220km circuit. Most days we walked for about 6 hours with a few stops along the way, and the peak of the trip being the Throng La Pass at 5416mtr.  The big day began at 4am so we could make the 900mt ascent by mid morning, the previous day fresh snow storms had made our acclimatisation walk not so much fun and we all prayed for a clear day. The sparkling stars were a pleasant sight to see and the trail of head lamps weaving their way up the mountain is something I can’t begin to describe. About 60 trekkers and their crews were setting off at the same time as us, slowly making our way in the dark up the steep mountain face. Reaching the peak at around 10.30am I had tears in my eyes from a combination of joy, exhaustion and elation at actually making it to the top. A culmination of 11 days trekking and the companionship of 13 people who had become like family made it a moment never to be forgotten.

Me at Throng La Pass - 5416mtr

The rest of the trek was the almost like an anti climax, or perhaps the winding down of an eventful 2 weeks.  Except of course celebrating my birthday in the mountains. This was not my first birthday in the Himalaya’s (how lucky to have had 2!) and I was looking forward to a slightly easier day and even some time to look around one of the many beautiful and quaint villages we stayed at. Given we were at day 13, the group was fairly tired and I thought we were in for an early night – but my trekking “family” made sure my birthday was not to go unnoticed and we all enjoyed the locally made Apple Pie and better still, Apple Brandy (as we were staying in the Apple capital of Nepal). And then to my embarrassment, proceeded to present me with gifts and cards, again, I was almost reduced to tears for the second time on the trek. So touching. (I have posted a clip on the flickr link next to this if you want to have a look)

Spending 18 days with a group of people can be challenging and even potentially annoying, but I was really blessed to be surrounded by such good people. Endless hours beside someone on the trail is really a great way to get to know someone, often there is long periods of silence, but it is amazing how even those times are filled with comfort and ease. We stayed in tea houses along the trail with the many other trekkers – varying degrees of comfort, bathroom standards and food quality became the daily conversation along with health ailments, bowel movements – too much/too little (I told you we were a close group) and general feelings that were inspired by the mountains and the company.

Our trekking family

So, I guess you are wanting to know the meaning of iPods and Apple Pies? Well, like the rest of my trip, the days have been filled with amazing sights and the trek was perhaps some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever experienced.  However it really was the people that made a difference, and what seems like the smallest things that can, in the long run, make the biggest difference. The “kids” as we fondly called the guys that carried our packs each day, that walked pretty much every step we did, sometimes in front, sometimes behind, but a lot of the time beside us. Most of our assistants were about 18 and like most 18 year olds, love their music. Discovering this, and giving them the use of my iPod for a day, turned into a regular event. “Big hills” required a beat, and the boys took it in turns of sharing my iPod each day. It actually didn’t matter what they listened too, it was music and they loved it. And the Apple Pie? Well besides being a regular feature on menus, as we were arriving into a town one day, we passed a proper bakery, the first we had seen. We decided to stop and enjoy some cake. Eddie one of the trekkers, a incredibly kind and generous man, offered to buy the 2 boys with us a piece of cake. Hesitantly, they agreed and both chose the biggest piece of Apple Pie you have ever seen. And I have never seen grins like it. Cradling the Apple Pie, they carefully ate every morsel, all the while, grinning like they had won the lottery. For about $2, Eddie had made these kids days, and for us, to share in that experience with them, something both Eddie and I will never forget. So the little things, iPods, Apple Pies, to us, they are things we take for granted, but to these Nepalese kids who spend their days carrying our bags, they are the world. The pure joy that can come from sweet apple and hearing Bob Sinclair are the memories that may even surpass the beauty of the mountains, well almost.

Shyam and I on our last night in Pokhara

There are so many other wonderful moments that I would love to share, but I think I will leave it here....but some key learnings from the trek that I can share with you:

1. Coca Cola is great for stomach issues, altitude sickness and just about anything

2.A Mars a day does help you work rest and play (Jason Martin, I did you proud)

3.Nepali flat - does really mean a little bit of up and a little bit of down (or sometimes even a lot)

4.Slowly, slowly is a mantra that I have heard twice now, so something in that for me

5.Never leave home without toilet paper and a head lamp