Om mani padme hum

I have always wanted to go to Tibet, and after spending time in McLeod Ganj I felt an even stronger urge to visit the alluring country. My interest perhaps started after visiting a region of China close to the Tibet border some years ago, the country side, the culture, it all felt a little different and it sparked my curiosity.  Add in a healthy interest in Buddhism and some exposure to the Tibetan community living in exile, and I was really drawn to see for myself the dramatic scenery and what had become of the country and its people.  I don’t want to get into a political discussion around the situation in Tibet, but it is difficult to avoid given it has had such a massive impact on a country and its people. But what I have grown to love about the Tibetan people outside of Tibet, was only confirmed by visiting their homeland.

Stupa at Baiju Temple

Most of Tibet sits at around 4000mtr above sea level, and unlike Nepal which is lush with vegetation and beautiful forests, the land is incredibly desolate and at times can leave you feeling like you are on the set of a star wars movie.  Long endless plains, bare mountains and cloudless blue skies greeted us for our 6 day tour of a country that is deeply influenced by its religion and whilst the landscape may sound stark and depressing, it is some of the most stunningly beautiful land that leaves you struggling for words.  Our adventure to Tibet was a last minute decision organised whilst we were trekking. It is actually not always that simple to go to Tibet, you must be with a guide, the visa process can be tough and then you also need to factor in if the border will even be open. But luck had it we could get an organised and private tour leaving a day after our trek finished. So my dream of visiting Tibet became a reality.

On the Friendship Highway

We flew in to Lhasa and spent two days around the old town, visiting the tightly controlled Temple and Potala Palace. The military presence was strong and whilst seemingly peaceful, you had the feeling that the guys casually sitting on the roof tops would soon be armed with AK47’s in a flash should you put one foot wrong. So amidst the 100’s of pilgrims making their daily prayer vigils, circling the Kora with their prayer wheels and repeating their mantra’s whilst clutching their worn mala beads, countless Chinese army marched up and down making their presence known. The Potala palace was as stunning and eery all at the same time, it was the previous home of His Holiness the Dalai Lama who fled the country in 1959 to seek refuge in India. So whilst it is still a place of significance for Tibetans, the Chinese do not recognise the Dalai Lama and therefore no pictures or shred of evidence that he even existed can be found. They have tried to erase him from the history of Tibet. So it all feels a little weird.



Potala Palace

After visiting the Sera Monastery that was once home to over 5000 monks but now only houses about 500 (the Chinese Government does not allow “gatherings” of people so they often end up in jail or fleeing into exile), we commenced our path on the “Friendship Highway” – the 1000km stretch of road between Lhasa and Kathmandu. Along the way visiting 2 other significant monasteries and passing through some dramatic scenery – our highest crossing at 5100mtr. Significantly different from the similar heights we had been at the previous week. Hours of driving in a country that has little vegetation but in its own way leaves you in awe. What was interesting is the presence of mobile phone towers, electrical poles and the “modernisation” of Tibet – there was not a moment where the evidence of China was not present. With this modernisation, also comes perhaps the parts that I found sad. Big busy streets filled with Chinese stores, restaurants and cars appeared to be suffocating the smaller more traditional alley ways, stone houses brightly painted with the family animals tethered at the front door. But something that I was reflecting on whilst I was there, the country side was some of the harshest, most barren land, yet the local people continued to farm it and do so quite successful. Removing the stones from the soil, preparing the land by yak or horse and sowing the local crops of barley by hand, the land showed courage, determination and almost a blind faith.  Like the land, the Tibetans, despite the infiltration of their country and culture, showed that same courage, determination and faith.  In every town we went to, the local people greeted us with beaming smiles, often taking your hand to walk for awhile. The conversation limited by a lack of common language but hand signals and smiles can go a long way. I can’t put into words the overwhelming joy and I have to say love that came from the Tibetans, my small experience in McLeod Ganj was only validated in the homeland of these people. Suffering hardship that most of us could not even comprehend, I think the Lonely Planet was right in saying they are the friendliest and most warm people in Asia. So Tibet is a not only a land of beauty, but a country that despite all of its hardships and heartbreaking stories, leaves you wanting more – more of the scenery, more of the people and more of the deep and rich culture and religion. Om mani padme hum – hail the jewel of the lotus – really sums up Tibet. Despite the harshest conditions, they continue to grow and flourish and keep a beautiful culture, whilst maybe not evident on the surface, underneath it, in the back streets and alley ways, it is alive and well.

The fighting spirit of the Tibetans :)