Kalachakra 2012

Kalachakra 21012 – words can not really do the experience any justice. Perhaps that is why I have put off writing this blog. I am avoiding it as I don’t really know where to begin. It almost seems like a dream as I sit on the step of my beach hut in Goa – a million worlds away from Bodhagaya, Bihar. The poorest state in India. Spiritual home to the Bodhi tree – the place where Buddha sat meditating and after 6 years gained enlightenment. Already this place has a lot going on. But put His Holiness the Dalai Lama, 200 000 + pilgrims, and me, and you have a recipe for a spiritual marathon.

I won't even begin to explain the intricate details of the high yoga tantric initiation - to be honest I am not even sure I understand them myself. But I went with an open mind and the intention of simply soaking up the atmosphere of this incredibly special event that draws pilgrims from all over the world. Monks, nuns, Tibetans from all corners of the globe, villagers from the Himalayan region and a reasonable amount of foreigners made their way to Bodhgaya for the 2 week process of preparation, teachings and the main initiation. A huge event in itself, and for many of the people coming from the remote regions of the mountains, an amazing opportunity to be in the presence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama.  Walking the streets amongst the sea of maroon, I couldn't help but feel I was not even in India. Shaved heads, swaths of maroon cloth, kind faces who always offer a smile behind the surgical face masks that became a necessary fashion accessory - on my first day I already was beginning to feel that where I was, the people who surrounded me, were all part of something incredibly special.

Fairly new to Buddhist teachings, I was prepared to be completely overwhelmed and ready to maybe not even understand the words that His Holiness the Dalai Lama would carefully deliver each day. But like other experiences I did have, the teachings were simple and clear. Daily crowds would line the streets from 4am to patiently await their turn to enter the teaching grounds whilst others would simply find a place on the street itself to listen to the entire program broadcast over load speakers or tune into the translations via the radio. Quiet and peaceful, Tibetan people have a humility and patience that astounds me. This type of event in the west would create chaos and mayhem but the Tibetans simply find a way to remain calm, not push in the crowd and even wear a smile whilst doing so. As the Tibetan security guard pointed out to the hoard of foreigners that pushed and shoved their way into the crowds - "you westerners simply don't know how to queue!!" Buddhist practices went out the window as Italians jumped the queue, Chinese simply ignored the queue and Canadians politely waited their turn saying nothing about the Italians that pushed in front of them. Daily we had countless opportunities to test our patience and our re-actions as the dust rose, the toilet condition worsened and the dreaded rain arrived. Breath. Breath again, and smile sweetly at the little Italian lady that confidently stands in front of you that was quite clearly not there 5 minutes ago.

My group of fellow travelers camped in the tent ground with about 20 000 other people, we attended sessions daily, sometimes waiting patiently for hours to enter the grounds and other days opting for the sanctuary of the Mahabodhi Temple and the infamous Bodhi tree where you could still pick up radio reception of the translations without the hassle of someone sitting on your foot in the crowded teaching tent. But for the most part it was simply soaking up the experience - witnessing the joy and love on the faces of newly arrived Tibetans as they hung off every word of His Holiness, of the soft and gentle chanting of the beautiful om mani padme hum as they awaited the arrival of the main man will stay with me forever.